Saturday, December 18, 2010

One year in....

One year in……
Wow, I have been a volunteer for over a year now. It’s weird saying that out loud and it’s even weirder to look around and not see the volunteers who just completed their service. Instead there are almost 60 new faces in Togo that swore-in in August and November of this year. It has been great having them around and showing them the ropes of PCV life and I had a great week of being a trainer in October, but it was comforting to have the 2nd year volunteers around and ask them questions about projects or just how to get by in Togo. Now that I am in my 2nd year I will try and be as helpful as the volunteers who just left. It’s sad to see them go but they have been here since September 2008, and most of them were more than ready to go home.
Work in Dapaong has been going well also. I have been working with peer educators. Peer educators are generally high school (Lycee in French) students, who get class time set aside to talk about different themes such as HIV/AIDs prevention or gender equity. It’s a great way to spread a message and it is one of the more sustainable projects a PCV can take part in. They stop by my house a few times a week and normally we talk about different ways we can make an impact in schools. One of the main things that I have been trying to stress to them is how gender and sex affect the spread of HIV/AIDs. For example young girls in Togo have a much higher chance, compared to girls in the developed world, of being victims of sexual violence. Most girls don’t even understand that they have a right to say no. With this high level of sexual violence, there are more girls in Sub-Saharan Africa with HIV/Aids than boys. Also girls in Togo are much less likely to step foot in a class room than a boy, and therefore less likely to learn about HIV/AIDs. As a GEE volunteer it is my job to promote sending girls to school, and to promote gender equality. Working with peer educators is a great way to do this. I primarily work with the same 10 students, 5 males and 5 females, and they work together to make Dapaong a better place. The female peer educators are great examples of educated females who are making a difference in Togo and hopefully more girls will follow in their footsteps as a result.
This is now my second Christmas away from home and I miss you all. I will be home next year so get hype. It’s going to be a real good time here though. A real good time. (Sorry Platauex. I just stole your joke. Savannes…You’re Welcome. We just moved in to our new transit house/work station, and we will be cooking up some great food and watching our favorite Christmas movies. I will be sure to write about it. Hope you all have a happy holiday season, and be sure to give a hug to the ones you love.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Il faut me donne ca......

One of the most frustrating parts about being a Peace Corps Volunteer is that we are constantly being asked to give money. Almost every day I am handed a pamphlet from someone who would like funds to do a project in the area. This sounds great but the budgets are always inflated to a large degree and the person will refuse to do the project for anything less than the stated amount. For example a few weeks ago a teacher at one of the local middle schools handed me a three page handout with information about a month long HIV/AIDS workshop he wanted to do at the school last year, but was not able to because he could not find the funds. I looked over the handout and all of the information seemed great, until I looked over the budget on the last page. It called for the equivalent of about 615 dollars which is a lot more money then what a lot of Togolese make in a year. After reviewing the information again I figured that we could do the same project and achieve the same results for about 20 dollars. This is just one of many stories.
It’s frustrating for volunteers because from the day we have arrived in Togo we are told by Peace Corps that it is more important to share our knowledge rather than our money in part because we don't make much. Many of the “development organizations” that volunteers work with are not self sustainable and never will be as long as they are funded by organizations like Churches in Europe or the U.S, or large international NGO’s like Population Service International, Rotary International or CARE. About once or twice a year a small group from these organizations will come to Togo for two weeks or so and see the progress that has been made. The people from these groups are put up in air conditioned hotels, driven around in Land Cruisers (land colonizers as we call them in Peace Corps), and have western food prepared for them. After their stay is over they hand over a very very large check and head back on a plane back to France. This just makes our job that much harder because we have no money to give and even if we did we are skeptical that the money would be put to good use, because we are here long enough to see how mismanaged the finances are here. I know that Peace Corps is not an option for most people and they prefer to do a small stint in a developing country through their Church or some other organization, but please don’t ever tell me that you did something like, “oh I did something like Peace Corps, and I just loved every second of it. Everyone was so nice and friendly.”

First off…. No. It was not like Peace Corps. Not even close.

Second… Yes, Everyone was friendly to you because you gave them a big check or help them build a church or school and then left.

Third… You were not there long enough to go through the hard parts.

When I flew home in August to go to my cousin’s wedding I flew from Accra, Ghana because it is cheaper but when I was on the airplane I could not count how many groups I saw, who were on their way home after doing their “development work” for a few weeks or less. They are easy to spot. The girls have their hair braided, the guys have their knock off sunglass on, (which they over paid for 3 fold because they can’t bargain), and chances are they are wearing the t-shirt of the church they belong to or some form of “traditional” African clothing (again they over paid for this). Oh and there is always some jackass in the airport lounge who is playing the African drum he bought on the trip
This is by far my most cynical post so far, but I am still very happy here. It is frustrating but I don’t let it keep me down, and I always feel good when I can convince someone that they don’t need a ridiculous amount of money to do some good for Togo. There is also some hope for funded projects in Togo. Another volunteer in a small village close to me is building a school, and I have no doubts that she will be involved in every step of the process making sure that all the money that she raises is not wasted or stolen. Like me she has been here for over a year and has done the research and found that her village could benefit from another school, and she will also be here long enough after the school is finished to see that it is being used properly. Her name is Rachel Gundacker and if you want you can make a tax-deductable donation to her school through Peace Corps Partnerships at peacecorps.gov.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Summer in Togo/I'm a Volunteer Trainer!

How I spent my Summer Vacation.
It’s been a great summer here in Togo. By the time I got home from Camp U.N.I.T.E school had ended and I started to look for other projects to do in Dapaong. I went to the women’s weaving organization, called C.E.D.A.F, that my site mate works at and helped them in their garden. It was a great experience. We planted melons, sun flowers, cucumbers and carrots with the hope that the women will be able to grow and sell the food. I looked pretty ridiculous working in the garden with traditional Togolese tools, and the women all had some good laughs at my expense. In my defense I had a minimal amount of garden/agriculture experience during pre-service training. The Savannas Region has several Natural Resource Management (NRM) Volunteers, and they gave some good advice. Working in the garden at C.E.D.A.F was an enjoyable experience, but I was still looking for more things to do with my time. Then my site mate introduced me to another organization similar to his called C.A.F.P.E.S. It’s a great organization of female apprentices who are learning how to be seamstresses. The director of the program has worked with PCVs in the past, and I have gone there several times to work with the girls. I presented Like Skills lessons as well as how to make skin crème to sell. On my last day at post, before leaving for my vacation to the states for my cousins wedding, I brought three kids from one of the schools where I work, and they presented two sketches in Moba for the girls because their French is not as strong. My counterpart from the school also came and gave a speech as well.
I had a great time back in the States in August. I ate good food, saw my friends and family and went to my cousin’s wedding in Ohio. It was very overwhelming walking into the Target with my mom on my first day back, but I quickly feel back in to my old life in Chicago. After having to travel in Togo for almost a year I will never complain about the inefficiency or cleanliness of public transportation in America again because riding the Metra and El’ in Chicago was a very enjoyable experience compared to riding with 18 adults, 5 crying babies, 4 chickens and 2 goats in a bush taxi in Togo.
Shortly after I got back from the States it was time to go to Mid-Service Conference (MSC). At MSC all of the PCVs who arrived in 2009 talked about their successes and failures during their first year of service in Togo. We also talked about future project ideas for the next year of service. During MSC I also found out that I will be a Volunteer Trainer for the new GEE/NRM stage that arrives in less than two weeks. I’m leaving post in a few days to go to the training workshop with the 9 other volunteer trainers. I remember how excited and nervous I was before I left for Togo, and how well my volunteer trainers prepared me for service so I hope I can be a good example for the new stagiers.
If you guys are reading this here is my take on the Peace Corps packing list….

Solar Chargers are great for those of you will be in the bush (NRM that means you I would guess 50 percent of GEE has electricty) but don’t expect them to charge anything more than your phone and i-pod.

Rechargeable batteries are great. If you don’t have electricity you will be close enough to a place where you can charge them.

You defiantly do not need dress shoes. I understand you have to dress business casual at the staging event before you depart but that might be the only time you wear them. It’s a tough call but if you think your shoes will pass at staging then you can leave the dress ones at home.

As far as other shoes go, chacos are great but I would also bring a good pair of flip flops also. No one here really wears shoes.

I would suggest brining your laptop. I have never heard of anyone saying they wish they hadn’t brought it. It may just sit around for a while, but the PCV lounge in Lome has wireless.

I brought way to many collared shirts. It’s fun and easy to have shirts made here. I guess it depends on your personal style. Just keep in mind that the Togolese people you will be working with generally don’t have more than 3 or 4 shirts total. Also guys leave the tie at home.

Exiffico makes great t-shirts. They are comfortable, easy to wash and lightweight. Nike makes a similar dry-fit model. They are a little more expensive than some other t-shirts but that last longer and are great for Togo.

You don’t need to bring sun screen or bug repellant (unless you have a particular brand). The med unit will give it to you on the day you arrive. They will also give you your water filter.

Make sure you have some U.S Dollars to change into CFA. Peace Corps pretty much expects you to buy a cell phone during you first week. They are about 30 dollars for the phone and SIM Card.

My i-pod has been a life saver and i-home makes great portable speakers that run on batteries.

Du Courage.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Camp U.N.I.T.E

Every summer a couple of PCVs organize a camp for the youth of Togo at the Peace Corps Training Center in the Central Region. Six other Volunteers and my self were counselors for a week for male apprentices. There were approximately 30 “kids” ranging in ages from 14 to 32. Each volunteer teamed up with a Togolese Counterpart and gave presentations on a range of Topics from Gender Equity and Sexual Harassment to Child Trafficking and Family Planning. I gave my presentation on the importance of sending girls to school. It was a difficult topic to present to male apprentices, many of whom never went to school in the first place, but I think that overall it went well. My counterpart and I introduced the subject with a small sketch and then we asked the kids about what they thought on the subject. We based the rest of the presentation on the idea that “if you educate a woman you educate a family and a nation.”
Each day after the presentations we had team building challenges for the campers. After the challenges we ate lunch and played games and had another small presentation. At night before dinner we had small group discussions with our cabins and I think that was the most important part of camp for the participants. They could ask the counselors questions about the presentations from the day, as well as any other questions they had about life in general. It was a great experience to be able to sit in a small group setting and see the light go off in the participant’s heads. It was pretty moving for all the volunteers who worked at the camp that week.
On the last day of camp we put on our new camp shirts and marched out in the community near the training center. A few minutes after we left it started to rain. The camp organizers tried to stop the march but the kids wouldn’t have it and we continued out in the rain singing songs and dancing in the streets. Little kids saw us and came running beside us, and it was of my most memorable moments during my six months as a volunteer.
After camp I planned on going back to Dapaong, but I decided to go to Lome for a few days to use the internet and welcome the new stage. They landed in Togo on June 5th and it they are the first new group of trainees to arrive since I got here in September. It’s crazy to believe that I have already been here for almost nine months. Since coming to post I have accomplished some small but positive goals, and over the summer I plan on working with some teachers in the area about new projects for the next school year. I am also going to Lome again in less than two weeks for an art show that is being put together by Small Enterprise Development (SED) Volunteers. Many SED Volunteers work with artisans through out Togo and this exposition will give them a chance to display their art to a large audience in the nation’s capital. I usually don’t like to travel outside of post this much but I feel it is important to show my support as well as buy a few gifts to give for my upcoming visit to the States. I’m very excited to see you all and I am very excited for my cousins wedding in August. Congrats Justin and Mandy.
On a side note many of you have asked how you can support me as a PCV. I have no ideas for major funded projects yet but if you want to help out Camp Unite for next year you can donate money to the UNITE Foundation in America which is run by former volunteers and organizers of the camp in Togo.

www.unitefoundation.org

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Du Courage

Some of you know already know but right now I am in South Africa Right now on vacation. I'm having a great time at Sun City. My old man has a conference here and I thought I should tag a long. Its been a great trip. I took my first hot shower since October and it was great and I'm also eating more than my usual goat and pentard....(pentard is a bird in the north). My parents brought some goodies from the states and it was like Christmas. New t-shirts, a USA soccer jersey, candy, dvds and other odds and ends. Also while I'm here I have had access to Internet that dose not make dial up look fast, and I noticed on peacecorpsjournals.com that some people for the up coming 2010 June Stage are getting their formal invites for Togo. It will be nice not to be the newbies anymore. It's not that we are picked on or there is really any hazing, but it will be fun to have new faces in country. I remember how happy I was when I got my Togo invite (after having already reassigned twice). It was pretty surreal. There were a lot of ups and downs before leaving for Peace Corps and a lot more lot more after getting to Togo, but I wouldn't trade any of them. Except the diarrhea . Well if any invitees read this I hope you know that we all look forward to meeting you and if you have in questions just ask. The packing list is pretty damn long and you wont need most of it.

Du Courage

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Bon Marché Eh!

Almost every community in Togo no matter how big or small has a market or Marché where you can buy food and other items for the house. The larger villages will have larger markets and the chances are you will be able to find more items. Dapaong is a Regional Capitol and on market days people come in from all over the Savannas Region to buy and sell their goods. The Marché area of Dapaong consists of three large open air buildings with green roofs. The first building has several long tables were you can buy seasonal fruits and veggies as well as spices and flour. In the other two larger buildings there are dozens of small booths where you can find cookware, small electronics, clothes, fabric and other odds and ends. You can go to the Marche and find things every day but the big Marche days for Dapaong are Saturdays and Wednesdays. On these days the Marche is swarming with people and you can find almost anything you would need.
I have been trying to cook more and the market is the only place where can find fresh food. I don’t have a refrigerator yet so I have to go every couple of days. Walking around the Marché area is all ways an interesting experience and every time I go I seem to discover a new part. There are always interesting smells, sights, and sounds at the Marché. There are always kids running around and vendors yelling out to you to buy their wares. It feels pretty chaotic sometimes but at the same time it seems natural and proper here in Togo. If you ever come to visit you will just have to experience it for yourself. Usually when I’m done buying all of my stuff I go to a restaurant nearby that has an open air terrace on the second floor and I look down at all of the organized madness. Sometimes you just have to buy things on impulse. Last week I bought a knock off Phoenix Suns Jersey for the hell of it.
In my past experiences abroad I would often tour the Marché or Souks, or Bazaars and look for knick-knacks or other souvenirs to bring back to the states. Now that I’m living in Togo going to the Market is much different. Instead of buying a gift for a friend back home I’m getting food and goods for myself, and I have to be more aware of prices. Knowing how to haggle or “discoute” with the venders is always a interesting ordeal.

Combein pour sa?

10 Mille franc.

Ah heh. C’est le prix pour le « yovo » Je vais paire 3 mille

Non non non non. 8 mille

Le dernier prix est quoi ?

5 mille franc

Ah bon. Je payer 4 mille franc

D’accord



The Marché mamas, as we like to call them, really know how to drive a hard bargain.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

T.I.T

Fuck

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Clean Feet

My feet are always dirty here. You may be asking yourself why is that such a big deal? Aren’t feet always dirty? Very few roads in Togo are paved and side-walks are non-existent, which means that I spend most of my time walking around on dusty dirt roads so at the end of the day my feet are pretty filthy. As a new volunteer its best to get out of your house as much as possible so I have been walking around Dapaong saying hi, or “saultaing” to random people and trying to improve my French, but as soon as I get home the first thing I say to myself is, “holy shit my feet are dirty” or “merde, mon peids sont sale.” Told you I have been working on my French. However as a result of this I have found that a good activity to pass the time is washing my feet. Not in the religious sense a la Jesus and Mary Magdalin, but it just feels good to have clean feet at the end of the day. Simply taking a shower is not enough to get your feet clean. F.Y.I you need a solid 10 minutes of solid scrubbing to get all the dirt off. So it’s best to get a bucket of water, a bar of soap and a sponge, take a seat on the front porch and go to town. It’s best to start with the bottoms then work in between the toes. Don’t ever skip going in between the toes. There is a lot of dirt in there and you can’t be shy about it. Then move on to the top of the foot and don’t forget to rinse and repeat. Always repeat. Another question you might be asking your self is…why don’t you wear shoes to avoid getting your feet so dirty. My response is, “well smart ass it’s really hot here, everyone in Togo wears sandals and I’m trying to be bien intégre.”
Now that that’s out of the way I hope you all had a wonderful holiday season and enjoyed the cold weather. This was my first X-Mas with-out my family so it was a little sad, but at the same time all of the volunteers in Togo are family in a way. We don’t always all get a long but at the day they are a great group of people and an amazing support network. This was also my first New Years Eve not seeing Umphrey’s McGee in 7 years. It was a little bit weird rocking in the New Year without my favorite band, but I guess the streak had to end sometime, and what better place than Togo. New Years Eve is not very big in Togo but there is a pretty big celebration on New Year’s Day. Everyone dresses up in their best clothes and eats A LOT of food. I also found out that it is customary for kids to go up to adults and ask for candy. Not knowing this I felt bad not being able to pass any out, but none of the kids seemed too upset. One brave kid even knocked on my door and asked for some. I really hope he enjoyed the raspberry crystal light packet.